Rural Living

Starting Beekeeping.

 

First Thoughts on Keeping Honey Bees.

As I have already stated, I am still learning the art of beekeeping, but hope the following may be of some help to anyone interested in becoming a beekeeper.

Watching an experienced beekeeper open a hive, examine the frames, working his way steadily through the hive, you would think that bees are the most docile and harmless creatures in the world. The ability to undertake this task in such a way is through experience and skill in handling the honey bee. For the novice beekeeper, nothing can replace practical tuition from an experienced and competent beekeeper. I cannot over emphasis my opinion that before embarking on seeking to obtain a colony of bees, joining your local Beekeepers Association, and if possible enrolling on a practical beekeeping course is the first step. This will give you a basic grounding in beekeeping and ongoing help and advice. Time taken over the early stages will be amply repaid over the years. If possible meet bees at close quarters to make sure you like them before spending your money, this can normally be arranged through a local Beekeepers Association.

 

Can I keep Bees.

Anyone who has the interest and temperament can keep bees, except a tiny minority who are allergic to bee stings. A garden is not even necessary, some beekeepers in cities keep bees successfully on the roofs of buildings, garage roofs, and lofts. However beekeepers have a responsibility to ensure that their bees do not cause alarm or inconvenience to neighbours. This not only applies to where they are located, but also ensuring that they are correctly managed. One well managed hive will be more productive and less of a problem, than four badly managed hives.

 

Beekeeping Protective Clothing.

It is a basic fact that bees will sting to protect their colony from attack and interference, and they will resent any intrusion in their hive. As the beekeepers experience and confidence grows so their resentment will reduce. It is necessary therefore to have certain protective clothing. Most beekeepers wear a bee suit which has an integral hood and veil. It is also necessary to purchase a pair of gloves, and most beekeepers tuck the trouser legs of their suit into wellington boots. The correct attire will give the novice beekeeper confidence when working with bees.

 

Beekeeping Equipment.

 

Bee Smoker.

The bee suit protects against stings. What is more important for both the beekeeper and bees is how to persuade the bees not to sting in the first place. The most important tool for this is the smoker. These are available from beekeeping equipment suppliers, or can sometimes be purchased secondhand. It is best to purchase one with a fairly large firebox, so you do not have to keep topping it up. The fuel for the smoker should be slow cool burning materials. Too much smoke upsets the bees, but a few puffs causes a large number of the bees to gorge themselves with honey, and this leads them to losing their aggression. They can then be kept under control during manipulations. Remember each bee that stings dies.

 

Bee Hive Tool.

Bees glue up any contact surface in the hive. It is necessary when carrying out manipulations to pull apart components in the hive, the most efficient tool for this task is a hive tool.

 

Feeder.

Feeders are used for any colonies that need sustenance. This includes emergency feeding in spring, autumn feeding to augment the natural honey stores the bees have for winter, or feeding to help a small colony or swarm to develop.

 

Bee Hive.

Whenever most people think of a bee hive they visualize the gabled roof WBC hive. Few beekeepers use these hives now. It has inner and outer walls, and there are many extra components to handle and maintain. They are also more expensive to purchase, than the more modern hive.

The modern hive consists of

FLOOR. This is a shallow tray with a gap at one end, which forms the hive entrance. The hive entrance can be reduced with a smaller entrance block, and also mouse guards can be fitted for winter.

BROOD BOX. This is a box, open top and bottom, it has rebated sides, from which removable wooden frames are hung. These frames contain wax combs. The brood box has the same external dimensions as the floor.

QUEEN EXCLUDER. This is a grill located between the brood box and supers. It allows worker bees to pass through, but due to the size of the grill does not allow drone bees or the queen to pass. This stops the queen laying eggs in the super boxes, which are for honey storage.

SUPERS. During the summer you would normally expect two or three super boxes to be placed on top of the brood box. This is where the majority of the honey is stored by the bees. The super boxes are the same exterior dimensions as the brood box, with the same rebate and frames of comb, but both box and frames are shallower.

CROWN BOARD. This is placed on top of the hive, under the roof, and normally has two oval holes for a feeder to be fitted, or bee escapes to be fitted, to clear bees from supers.

ROOF. The roof is normally metal covered to keep the interior of the hive dry.

The most popular are the National Brood and a Half, and Commercial Hives. I personally favour the Commercial Hive, where the brood is contained in one box. The National brood box consists of a brood box and a super. This means that two boxes and twice as many frames have to be checked when carrying out an inspection of the brood box. The exterior dimensions of both hives are the same so that the supers of both hives are interchangeable.

 

Manipulating Cloth.

Although not essential they can be easily made. They consist of a piece of cloth the width of the hive, but a little longer at one end. Tack a small lathe at the longer ends. These cloth can then be used to cover the frames during manipulations, one being rolled up, and the other unrolled as you proceed. The bees are more subdued when covered, and it reduces the risk of chilling the brood. Don't use nylon as bees do not like this material, white material is best.

 

Bee Brush.

Used for gently brushing bees from combs.

 

The Bees.

It is important to ensure that any equipment or bees obtained do not carry disease. Hives should be scrapped clean of wax and propolis, and then sterilized by flaming with a blow torch. The heat should be sufficient to remove any excreta and other organic matter without burning the wood.

The best source of information on obtaining bees is probably the local Beekeepers Association.

The cheapest way to start is with a swarm, and local beekeepers will be the best informed on where one may be obtained.

The second option is to purchase a four or frame nucleus, which can be gradually built up to a full colony.

The third option is obtaining a full colony.

Purchasing a nucleus may be the best option for the new beekeeper. A small colony will be easier to handle, and as the colony builds, so will the beekeepers experience.

 

 

Siting the Bee Hive.

The main considerations when siting a hive are

Easy access for the beekeeper.

A flight path that will not annoy or concern neighbours or other members of the public.

Protection from strong winds and driving rain.

Not in deep shade from overhanging trees.

Firm ground with good drainage.

 

This is not a comprehensive guide to starting beekeeping. Rather an overview to provoke further thought on whether beekeeping is a craft that interests, and encourages further investigation. Many books have been written on beekeeping, and I am an avid collector of beekeeping books. I have personally found Guide to Bees and Honey by Ted Hooper, Published by Marston House, to be the most practical and comprehensive publication I have read. This book acts as a practical guide, and also has information that a prospective beekeeper will find useful.